Although settled along the Mediterranean, the Blue Coast hosts more than just turquoise waters. The Maritime Alps lay in the background and their snowcapped peaks are visible just a short distance away from the beach. The foothills of these mountains make amazing day trips in romantic villages with gorgeous views of the ridges and sea. Two villages not far from Nice were the starting points to a pair of excellent hiking routes we went on. Tourette Levens and Saint Jeannet are each less than an hour’s bus ride outside of Nice. Check out our tour in Tourette Levens here.
Tour 2: Saint Jeannet’s Baou round trip hike
Saint Jeannet is nearly unvisited by tourists, or so boasted our guide book. It definitely appeared that way when we arrived on bus 54 from Grand Arenas in Nice (check Lignes de Azur for accurate bus schedules). The massive rock looking down over the village is visible for most of the ride from Nice. Although a hot spot destination for climbers, we decided against vertical ascent for the windy (possibly rainy) day, choosing instead to ascend the great Baou by foot.
This breathtaking 9.3 km/3.5 hr tour is very easy to follow, although there are few trail markers/signs. We had a great winter day for this hike, but be aware of rainfall. The second half of the tour was like hiking through a creek. This hike is mostly exposed to the sun and was quite windy. Be sure to bring a lot of water with you, especially in the summer. There is nowhere along the way to resupply.
The Start
The last stop on the bus is Saint Jeannet, which dropped us off in a parking lot at the village’s end. From there we followed the signs into town directing hikers to the Baou of Saint Jeannet. Going through town we passed by the climbing shop. It’s so tiny and full that C and I barely fit inside together with the owner. It was nice to talk to him and see how passionate he is about climbing and the area.
Like the path in Tourette Levens, this trail is also guided much of the way by the GR-59 red and white stripes. Following them out of the town, we were soon on a path heading up to the Baou. It is also broad, cobbled with stones, and a leisurely incline considering how much altitude needs to be covered to get to the top.
The Baou
Eventually there is the option to turn left to get to the lookout point or to continue on the trail. The well-worn trail is intercepted by many others, but they all mostly lead to the front of the rock. It seemed to take as long walking horizontally as it did vertically, but eventually we made it to the orientation circle at the panorama viewpoint. And it was worth it! The view is incredible, and not for those with vertigo! As the Baou is used for climbing, another way to get this view is with ropes and quickdraws. So it is important to watch where you step and to not get too close to the edge without a harness and being attached to the wall.
The Castelet
To continue the hike, we took another left about half way back on the Baou. This would lead us to the next site en route. We walked on the other side of plateau through a field and rejoined the previous path at a point further on. The hike continues along the ridge of the same mountain and then on to the next mountain. The weather kept changing from windy to calm depending on which side of the mountain we were on. Soon we could see the Castelet and before we knew it we were there! The building site has been the location of a farm house since the 1300’s, but the current ruins date back to the 18th century. Hiking to the very end of the plateau, I could see some impressive waterfalls out in the distance.
Returning
With the highlights over, it was time to return to Saint Jeannet (we couldn’t miss the bus since it only came every few hours). To return, we took the path that heads downward next to the ruins’ tower. This part of the trek was most challenging. The steepest terrain is located here, so if you don’t have sturdy shoes, just stick with hiking up to the Baou. Additionally, we had the same challenge as on the previous tour – water. For most of the way back the trail had turned into a river. Again, I just walked right on through, but C was more careful (and successful) at not getting his feet wet.
Just before getting into town we passed some boulders and the base of some of the climbing areas. The trail continues into road and leads straight back to the center of town.
There are three other Baous in Saint Jeannet which we didn’t get to hike to. The many trails, climbing routes for days, and stunning views definitely pull me towards revisiting Saint Jeannet sometime soon.