If you ever decide to hike the Camino, I would suggest NOT going during Holy Week – the week before Easter. Many Spaniards have time off for the holiday and choose to do the pilgrimage because (1) it’s an appropriate activity for Easter time and (2) it’s the perfect amount of time to complete the minimum 100 km required to earn a Compostela (certificate of completion). There were noticeably more pilgrims on the trail on day 6 while hiking from Pontevedre. Previously, I would mostly see pilgrims only when stopping at a café – which makes sense as it’s a kind of gathering point. But on this day there was almost always someone passing me or that I was catching up to. This gave it the feel of being a race with the added competition factor of trying to get a bed for the night.
There was only one large increase in elevation along the way, which went by much more quickly than I anticipated. The temperature stayed cool, allowing me to keep my jacket on for most of the morning until the sun came out shortly before noon. Even though it was just 12:30 and had been 24 km when we (Kathrin and I) arrive in Caldas de Reis, I was relieved to be there. Yesterday, the first 23 km had been so easy and quick, I was eager to walk some more. Today, I am more than finished.
Crazily, there is a line of backpacks outside of the albergue waiting for it to open up at one o’clock. We place our packs in the queue and I try to count how many are in front of ours. The albergue only takes the first 50 pilgrims for the night, otherwise we would need to walk another 15 km to the next one and hope that it has beds left. I don’t feel certain after counting the packs. The less than quarter hour after 1 o’clock passed quickly as the pilgrims before us gave their names and passport numbers to the reception while we waited our turn. We were in luck. We got the last two beds available. A few people behind us got a mattress on the floor and the remaining pilgrims and any thereafter were turned away. I find this pretty crappy: those arriving before midday (having hiked mostly in the dark without enjoying the way) are able to get a place to sleep, while those who may walk all day long are not able to get a bed, even though they need it more. I think this situation is less prominent outside of Holy Week, but still not a fun situation to find yourself in.
I then went to the supermarket and wandered around town. It felt like a ghost town. I wondered if this is because it’s Holy Thursday and everything closes early or if there’s just nothing going on in this place. A pilgrim told me about a thermal pool nearby and I decided to go check it out. It’s about 7 x 12 ft and 20 inches deep, with 45⁰C (110+ F) water, covered by a roof. There were several other pilgrims with their feet in the water, including Giovanni and Fabiana, two pilgrims I had met on the first day in Ponte de Lima. At first the water was scalding, but then it felt heavenly on my tired feet. Today’s 24 ish kilometers were difficult, but after a relaxing afternoon I should be ready for the final big day.
Later that evening there was a procession through the city, beginning in the square near the church. These processions are typical for Spain during religious holidays and ceremonies, and even happen in Italy as well. Members of the congregation descended from the church, solemnly carrying Jesus on the cross and other holy figures. A marching band dressed in black accompanied the participants with somber music. After the procession passed, I went back to hostel to get some sleep. About an hour later, I heard the procession pass by the albergue.
The first alarm clocks went off again at 5, maybe earlier. I was in for a shock when my alarm went off at 6:30. There is only one other person still sleeping in the room out of 25 bunks. “The end [of this pilgrimage] has begun to feel like a race and it’s annoying and stressful,” I wrote in my journal that evening. It’s making the journey less enjoyable and I’m not sure I can “listen to the Camino” as well since I’m so rushed by all the pilgrims around me.
Kathrin was waiting for me and we left just before 7. Clouds were shielding the moonlight, so we had to use a flashlight in order to walk for the first hour and a half. I really don’t like to walk in the dark because I’m not getting to see the way. I could hear a stream nearby, but never got a glimpse of it.
Today could actually be described as cold. There are so many pilgrims, it’s unbelievable. We stopped at the edge of Padron to eat something. When we continued on, we’re grateful to have decided not to stay in this ugly, industrial city. I was feeling tired on this day and the going was slow even though we only had 10 more kilometers to go. We stopped to inquire at the first accommodation we came across in Faramello, even though it was a hotel. Fabiana was there and said she was able to book the last room. I asked the woman at the counter if they have beds or know where there are beds available in town. She says everything for that evening was booked solid.
I got out my guide book to see what it had to say about accommodation. One of the first places listed included a phone number and said that it takes reservations. I figured we’ve got nothing to lose and called the number.
“Hola?…Somos peregrinos…Queremos dos camas por favor…la verdad!? Estamos alli en venti minutos… mi nombre? Christine ….gracias!! hasta pronto!”
In disbelief, I relayed to Kathrin that I managed to reserve us two beds and we’ve gotta go get them QUICK! We practically ran out of the hotel all the way to the private albergue, La Calabaza del Peregrino. When we get there, the lady explains to me (in Spanish) that two people had just cancelled their reservation right before I called, which was why we were able to get the beds. WHAT LUCK!
Believe it or not, the day got even better. There are SHEETS on the beds, like at Pilger Pause in Fontoura. I ate eggs and mushrooms and then we sat out on the patio to hang out with the other pilgrims there. The sun came out from time to time and we were able to warm up a bit. There are just two other beds in our room, occupied by a couple from Portugal who literally walked out their front door to begin the Camino. The beds were comfy, it was quiet, and I went peacefully off to sleep, dreaming of arriving in Santiago in the morning.