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Der Berliner Mauerweg (Berlin Wall bike trail) is a 152 km (95 mi) path following the former Berlin Wall around West Berlin. Starting in Berlin Mitte, the Mauerweg passes by numerous tourist attractions before becoming more rural at the outskirts of the city.

Berlin Wall demarcation
marking the former Berlin Wall

After finally getting my Fahrrad (bike) repaired this week (I had to make an appointment 2 weeks in advance – how German), I was ready for another stab at cycling. I was grossly unprepared for the last bike tour I did, so this time I would not only have functioning gears, but a reasonable amount of mileage (kilometer-age?) and actually nice weather.

Potsdamer Platz to Oberbaumbrücke – 7 km

On a sunny Sunday morning, I set off in the direction of Potsdamer Platz, 6.5 km from home, to the start of the Mauerweg. Perhaps my map reading skills have improved since the last cycle tour, but getting started and on the right street was pretty easy this time around. In no time I was pedaling past the Martin-Gropius-Bau (where I went to an exhibit on the Reformation for its 500 year anniversary with my grade 7 students) and the Topographie des Terrors (a museum which was formerly the SS Reich Main Security Office and headquarters for the Gestapo).

Fernsehturm Berlin
first glimpse of the Fernsehturm (TV tower); it would be visible often at the beginning of the tour

I noticed along the ground a set of parallel brick lines marking the location of the Wall. This demarcation would be visible for many of the 31 km of wall that I biked on this first excursion. The line of bricks continued to lead me past Checkpoint Charlie and a memorial for Peter Fechter, an 18 year old bricklayer who had a tragic death attempting to escape the wall.

To see what this spot looked like and find out what traveling was like in the 1970’s, check out Anne’s post!

Leaving Mitte, I passed through Kreuzberg, riding by the Engelbecken (Angel Pond) before crossing the Spree River into Friedrichshain.

Early Sunday morning is a great time to ride by the famous East Side Gallery, as there are hardly any tourists out. Once I reached Berlin’s most beautiful bridge,  Oberbaumbrücke, the 7 km long first leg of the Mauerweg was complete.

Oberbaumbrücke to Schöneweide – 13 km

Using the Oberbaumbrücke to cross back over the Spree into Kreuzberg, I caught a quick glimpse of the Molecule Men at the start of section two of the Berlin Wall bike trail. After pedaling over the Landwehrkanal, I saw an old watch tower which had guarded the former wall.

I followed the canal a bit before heading through some green areas of the Alt Treptow neighborhood near Treptower Park. Here I saw the memorial to Hartmann (10) and Schleusener (13), the two youngest people to die attempting to cross into West Berlin.

Particularly within the center of Berlin, there is a noticeable difference between East and West. The apartment buildings on the West side are quite close to where the actual wall was. Looking to the left (towards the East), there is either quite a bit of space, new supermarkets, or newer apartment buildings. The reason there is more space is because the wall wasn’t just a wall. There was a “death strip” up to 160 yards wide between the TWO walls separating East and West to make certain no one would cross successfully.

berlin wall bike trail
getting artsy with shadows

Leaving Treptow, the trail becomes a lot less urban. Briefly, I cycled the Britzer Zweigkanal (where there’s a monument for Chris Gueffroy, the last border crossing death prior to the wall coming down) before making a sharp left along the Teltowkanal and the 113 Autobahn. This is a surprisingly nice section to cycle. It’s along the water with a wide paved path perfect for all of the pedestrians, bikers, and rollerbladers. Even though the highway runs directly parallel, the rushing wind in your ears hardly allows you to acknowledge the speeding cars just a few meters behind the barrier.  (*Note* to go over bridge at the Britzer Zweigkanal there is a set of steps  – the only one I encountered this trip)

Schöneweide to Lipschitzallee – 11.5 km

Having reached the end point for section two, I was beginning to get tired but felt up for the first 11.5 km of the 20 km third leg. For the first time I finally used my gears properly going uphill and easily crossed the bridge over the Teltowkanal, still following the highway. I saw a plane take off in the distance as I neared the border to Schönefeld.

While hiking the 66 Lakes Trail, I often felt that Brandenburg (the state surrounding Berlin) was nothing but sand and horses. Sure enough, as I neared the pink line on the map separating Berlin from B-burg, I could see the horses in the distance. I’m not kidding! Continuing along the Mauerweg, I passed by several horse farms, catching whiffs of the sweet sour smell of wet hay while dodging fresh piles from the quadruped riders ahead of me. Then, I saw a giant pile of sand with a kid sliding down it. Brandenburg, I know you too well. (*Tip* When you get to the Rudower Chaussee/Schönefelder Strasse, go right instead of left to get to Schneehuhnweg. I ended up getting a little lost, found some closed trails, and went through quite a bit of mud. Hopefully I’ve saved you the frustration)

berlin wall bike trail sign
Synopsis of the tragedies incurred by the Berlin Wall

Beginning to feel quite finished, I was glad my 38 km jaunt was almost to an end. I cut section three early and quit at Lipschitzallee, taking the Ubahn back home (otherwise it would be another 15 km). I really enjoyed the sunny weather, getting to know my way around Berlin better, and the history lesson. Let’s hope the spring weather continues and that I’ll continue the Mauerweg shortly!

2 comments

    1. thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it. This first was really enjoyable – history, city, nature, water…really everything you could want. It certainly helped that it was a sunny day in Berlin 🙂

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